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I'm currently planning a new wall-mounted computer desk and intend to use something similar to this as the top:

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However, my end goal is for a wall-mounted desk, using L-Bracket mounts. I've never built a wall-mounted anything. So some of my questions are:

• Using 2 x 10 dimensional lumber, I'm going to have a 27.75' deep desk. However, I can't seem to find an L-Bracket above 22'. I feel that this is a huge overhang given the top isn't a solid sheet, but I'm not sure.
• Is mounting the L-brackets at every other stud sufficient?
• Do I need to run a support between the brackets (mounted 1 x 6 or equivalent)?

If anyone has a suggestion that I seem to be completely missing, I'm all ears :).

EDIT: Forgot to mention that the ends of each desk will not have a wall for support, so the entire weight will be supported by the L-brackets themselves. Overall I expect the length of the desk to be around 5' in each direction from the corner.

3

L Brackets are not going to be a good idea for this type of project. As a minumum you will need to have a triangle type bracket - if you can find something large enough. If you want to avoid any type of legs right at the front edge you could build your own equivalent of a triangle bracket out of wood.

If I was setting out to make a built in unit mounted onto a wall I would secure a wood piece along the wall to every stud at the table height minus the top thickness. Then I would use this horizontal strip as the rear side mount for the table top. Then I would install supports under the table from near the front edge and angle them down toward the bottom of the wall where they could be fastened into the wall stud and/or the floor.

At the end of the day I would really suggest that you step back and evaluate if it really necessary to fasten your table to the wall. Having it sit on its own supports makes for a huge bunch of flexibility. It can be moved, taken away when all computers of the future fit into a pocket and a computer desk is no longer needed, and lastly you can easily get it away if you ever want to sell the house.

Michael Karas♦Michael Karas4

That's a pretty heavy table top to cantilever. I'd think about attaching a 2x4 ledger to the wall. That's a horizontal 2x4 screwed directly to the studs.

Then, I'd put 2x4s vertically, between the ledger and the floor at every other stud. Depending on the length of the desk, you could go every 3 in the middle to create some chair space.

I'd use these verticals as an anchoring point for angle braces that would come out about 20 inches from the wall and attach to the table top.

It could look quite good if you built it out of cedar and finished it properly.

Chris CudmoreChris Cudmore1

I used adjustable shelving to build my standing desk. I didn't want to commit whole hog to standing, so this let me have the option of lowering it later if I wanted. After your feet adjust in the first month, it's awesome.

I have an 18' bracket for a 24' shelf counter. I have a second smaller bracket with a shelf for the monitor, since you want the center of the monitor at eye level. Like I said, I can move the whole thing up or down in about 1' increments. I use about every 3rd stud for mounting.

It's really weight dependent. If you're going to put a lot of heavy stuff on it like a workbench, it'll need more support. For a 23' monitor or 3, phone, paper and such, you're probably fine. You can use the higher rails for bookshelves.

I don't know what the weight ratings are, didn't research that since I'm not loading mine up that much. But I've had them up for years now. I used 3'-4' screws to mount so it had more grip into the studs. Maybe 5-10 per each 5 foot rail, they have holes where the screws go.

Smaller 7 1/2' with 6' brackets can be a bit tippy when I move stuff around. You can see I have 20 lb of weight to hold the laptop dock and shelf on. I've thought about making a U piece to go on the back to lock it in.

RLZaleskiRLZaleski

Alternative 1 - These type of designs are popular in europe. I have seen it in France. You will need some strong triangle brackets for the bottom. This will keep the back level.

Then you need to drill some holes on the front of the desk. You will need to then buy thick guage wire. You knot it off on the bottom - tie it to an end cap. On the top you need to attach it to a mounting bracket and attach to stud. They sell kits for these - sorry I don't feel like googling this right now - please edit if someone finds a good kit. You could do the same thing from the ceiling.

Alternative 2 - If price is of no concern they do make huge L brackets for heavy machinery/counter tops that you could use. These would cost about $50-100 (at least) a piece and looks like you need at least 6. These would have to be attached to stud with very long wood screws or lag bolts. If you are in the US, pull up craigslist and find a local metal shop. You need each L rated for at least 100 pounds over 2 feet. Here is a website I have used in the past to gather prices so I knew what to expect when dealing with local shop.

If you get an L/triangle big enough it will hold without sag. It will cost you a lot to set this up and your main concern is making sure the bolts don't pull out of the stud. I am sure others could give you better advice than me on bolts/screws needed.

DMooreDMoore

Depending on how visible the bottom will be or how you want it to look, you could go to a metal shop and get 2 big pieces of flat steel about 2-4' wide and have them bend them to a 90° angle and then just drill holes for some screws and have that act as an oversized L bracket. Mount the bottom of the L along a wall stud, or if it's in the basement just bolted into the cement. I can tell you are going for the 'my legs hit nothing as I slide in and around this table' appeal, Which is nice. If you don't want the steel L supports to show you could paint over them or cover them with something or mill some channels so they sit within the wood of the desk or the wall and then just fill in the edges.

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Niall C.♦

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Once you get the hang of it, corner to corner crochet is really easy, which makes it perfect for beginners or quick projects – there are only a few stitches to learn and the fabric grows quickly. We’ll show you the basics of how to corner to corner crochet (alternatively called how to C2C crochet), including increases, decreases, rectangles and colour changes.

What is C2C crochet?

Corner to corner crochet (or C2C crochet) is a great technique for creating colourful pieces. The fabric is made up of squares worked in diagonal rows, starting in one corner and finishing in the opposite corner (hence the name). The corner to corner crochet technique is brilliant for creating fab colour effects using variegated yarns, especially yarn cakes. The square construction also makes it great for creating charted designs (blankets made from charts are often called ‘graph-gans’), which results in some eye-popping geometric and pictorial patterns.

If you’re not familiar with any of the abbreviations used in the tutorial, you can find everything you need to know in our Crochet Abbreviations and UK/US conversion guide.

Check out our corner to corner crochet video for a general guide, or you can read below for our step-by-step picture guide. We’ll begin our ‘How to C2C crochet’ tutorial with making the first square of your corner to corner crochet pattern. To get to grips with c2c crochet, let’s make an easy practice piece of 3×3 squares. We’ve used DK yarn and a 4mm hook, but you can use any yarn and hook you like. Our squares will be made up of 3 trebles and one 3-ch length (which doesn’t count as a stitch), but you can use longer stitches to create larger squares – for example, for double treble squares, use 4dtr and one 4-ch length.

Our practice C2C crochet piece will follow this diagram, starting with Square 1. We’ll work the squares in diagonal rows, without fastening off, starting with square 1 and finishing with Square 9.

How to start corner to corner crochet

Step 1

To start making the first square, chain 6.

(This is for if you are making trebles, which is the most common stitch for C2C crochet – but you can just add an extra chain for dtr stitches, or subtract one for htr, or two for dc, then adjust Step 2 according to which stitch you’ve chosen to work with).

Step 2

Skip the first 3 chains and treble into the 4th chain from the hook, then treble into the next 2 chains. This completes the first of your c2c squares, and it will appear in the bottom left-hand corner.

Step 3

To help you follow what we’re doing, here’s a stitch diagram of the 9-square C2C crochet piece that we’re going to make. It might look complicated, but it will make sense if you follow it along with the written instructions.

How to increase in corner to corner crochet (C2C increase)

Step 1

Here’s how to make an ‘increase row’ of squares

To make your piece bigger, you need to increase the number of C2C crochet squares, so the next diagonal row of our piece has 2 squares. To start any new row, you need to turn your fabric, then rotate it 90 degrees clockwise, so that the working loop is in the bottom-right of the fabric. On our practice piece, the wrong side will now be facing.

To work an increase at the start of a row, ch6 (if working trebles).

Step 2

As before, skip 3 chains and treble into the 4th chain and the next 2 chains.

Step 3

To secure the square and get the working loop in the right place for making the next square, work a slip stitch into the top-right of the adjacent square: insert the hook into the 3-ch space of the adjacent square, yrh and pull through the sp and the loop on the hook. This completes the square (Square 2 in our example).

Step 4

To start the next square, ch3.

Step 5

Work 3 trebles into the 3-ch space of the square below. If there was an adjacent square, you’d slip stitch to it in the same way as Step 3 – if not, this square counts as an increase at the end of the row.

Step 6

To make another increase row in your C2C crochet fabric, follow the same process for the next diagonal row (Squares 4, 5 and 6 in our example). To do this, turn and rotate the fabric as usual, repeat Steps 1-3 to increase one square at the start of the row (Square 4), then repeat Steps 4-5 (making sure you slip stitch to the adjacent square) to make a plain square (Square 5), then repeat Steps 4-5 to increase one square at the end of the row (Square 6). If you want to make your fabric larger, just work more increase rows by repeating Step 6 and working as many plain squares in the middle of the row as you need to. Continue until your piece is as large as you want it to be across the width and/or height (more on this later).

How to change colour in C2C crochet

Step 1

If you wanted to work any of these c2c crochet squares in a different colour, the process is very simple. You need to work the final yrh of the final stitch on the previous square in the new yarn colour. This rule applies to all squares whether they are in the middle of a row or at the end of a row.

Step 2

Then you’ll have a loop of the new colour on the hook, ready to work the next square in the new colour

Step 3

If you are changing colour in the middle of a row, you can also work the joining slip stitch in the new colour.

If you’re following a corner to corner crochet pattern that requires a lot of colour changes, you will be provided with a colour chart that shows you which colour each C2C square is to be made in.

How to decrease in corner to corner crochet (C2C decrease)

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Step 1

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Here’s how to make a ‘decrease row’ of squares

Once your C2C crochet fabric is the desired size (in width or height), you’ll need to begin decreasing the number of squares in each row by using some simple slip stitches. To work a decrease row (which might be called a C2C decrease), turn and rotate the fabric as usual so the working loop is in the bottom-right corner.

To C2C decrease at the start of a row, work 4 slip stitches up the side of the last square you worked. To do this, insert the hook into the nearest treble of the previous square, yrh, pull through the stitch and the loop on the hook. Repeat to work a slip stitch into each treble, then into the 3-ch space. The working loop will now be in the bottom-right corner of the next square you want to work (Square 7 in our practice piece).

Step 2

Continue the fabric by making a plain square as before, starting with ch3.

Step 3

Work 3tr into the 3-ch space below and ss to the top-right of the adjacent square (Square 7 is complete).

Step 4

Work more plain squares as needed, repeating Steps 2-3. To decrease at the end of the row, just stop after you’ve slip stitched to the last adjacent square.

Step 5

To work the next decrease row, turn and rotate the fabric as usual, then repeat Steps 1-4. In our example, you’ll need to slip stitch up the side of Square 8, then work Square 9. This completes our practice piece.

Step 6

To work any of these squares in a different colour, the process is the same as before, with the one exception being at the start of a decrease row. Here, you can simply fasten off the old yarn and join the new yarn in the bottom-right corner of the next square you want to work, so you don’t need to slip stitch up the side of the previous square as described in the previous steps.

Now that you’ve learn the basics of how to c2c crochet, why not use your new-found skills to hook up your first corner to corner crochet pattern! You could start off with our How to crochet a baby blanket tutorial, which is a simple corner to corner crochet pattern with a cute little star design. Or if you fancy checking out a range of corner to corner crochet patterns, then why not take a look at our pick of the Top corner to corner crochet patterns.

How to make rectangles with Corner to Corner crochet

By now, the stitch diagram at the start of our guide should make more sense. To create our square C2C crochet piece, we worked increases at both ends of the rows (Squares 2-6) and then decreases at both ends of the rows (Squares 7-9). This even shaping creates a square, but you can make other fabric shapes by varying your increases and decreases.

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For example, to make a C2C crochet pattern a rectangle, work increases at both ends of each row until the fabric is the desired size in height or width. Then continue to make increases at one end of the row and decreases at the other end of the row, as shown in the diagrams below. You can continue in this way until the C2C crochet rectangle is as long as you like. Colour changes work the same way for squares as for rectangles too.

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We hope you’ve enjoyed this corner to corner crochet tutorial, don’t forget you can find loads more fun crochet tutorials and techniques in our how to crochetsection. If you need any help with your crochet stitches you can always check out our crochet for beginners guide. And if you’re looking to treat yourself, check out our list of the best crochet hooksand the best crochet kits for beginners.